Sumacade

In Turkey and the Middle East they use sumac berries to make a lemony spice which is used in salads and on grilled meats. Considering the extent to which other spices and herbs from the region have permeated European cooking since the crusades, it’s surprising that sumac is so uncommon here.

The sumac used for spice-making doesn’t grow in Western Europe. Staghorn Sumac is an American plant which, owing to its striking appearance, has become a common ornamental all over Britain, including on London roundabouts. The berries grow in red, pointy clusters which give the tree an antler-like appearance, hence the name. The berries are hairy and therefore difficult to incorporate into cooking. The best thing to do is to infuse them in water to make a native American drink known in the states as Indian Lemonade. I think Sumacade is a much snappier name and better suited to the twenty first century.

You’ll need:

• 2 or 3 horns of sumac berries
• 1 ½ litres water
• Sugar to taste

Strip the horns, put the berries in a polythene bag and beat them with a hammer. Then tip them into a jug, steep them in boiling water and leave overnight. Next morning strain the liquid through muslin twice and add sugar to taste. If you have a Soda Stream, it’s well worth giving it a bit of fizz.

The delicate pink drink is now ready to chill and serve. It should have an ‘adult’ flavour, like those 90’s dinner drinks for teetotallers. Mix it with vodka, crushed ice and fresh mint leaves for an impressive party drink.